Markus Molitor Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese Riesling *** 2006

93/100 PP

"Molitor’s “three star” 2006 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese loads the nose and palate with honey, malt, vanilla, caramel, peach, and nut paste. Suble salt, peach kernel bitterness, hints from the older barriques in which this has lain, and wet stone notes provide counterpoint for the sweetness and botrytris inflections of this expansive and creamy Riesling. The resinous and spicy notes of wood also fit the caramelized, honeyed direction that this wine is headed in its long finish. This is a remarkably synergistic success, although it will not be without controversy. But consider that I am probably as susceptible to a prejudice against the idea of Riesling in barrique as anyone. This will be truly exciting to follow, and I would not be too surprised to see it evolve nicely for 15-20 years, but I would really not accept any testimony except the wine’s."
(David Schildknecht, robertparker.com)