Peter Jakob Kühn Oestricher Doosberg Riesling Erstes Gewächs 2008

90/100 PP

"The 2008 Oestricher Doosberg Riesling Erstes Gewachs marks a milestone for Kuhn (thanks in large part, of course, to his wines- bone-dryness and malo-lactic conversion) for having never passed through a filter. While a VDP member, Kuhn generally doesn't submit wines as part of the Erstes Gewachs program - indeed, the often idiosyncratic and never conventional character of his top bottlings would practically guarantee a high number of rejected submissions! But this wine (despite its notable volatile and subtly oxidative elements) was an exception ... or perhaps the growers who sit in judgment are becoming more open-minded. Bittersweet perfume of iris, almond extract, and cherry pit mingle on a firm, lively palate with yellow plum, herb-broth concentrate, and an austere, crushed stone suffusion. Suggestions of smoke return with the floral high-tone nut and fruit pit notes in a long, intriguing finish. Lacking - at least, as yet - the creaminess of texture that often accrues to Kuhn Rieslings, this dense specimen will need some years in bottle to acquire a less austere patina, and I am confident that (in a proper cellar: remember, unfiltered!) it will justify a dozen or more years of repeated attention."
(David Schildknecht, robertparker.com)

OESTRICH DOOSBERG – VDP.GROSSE LAGE
"„Doos“ ist Rheingauer Dialekt für „Dachs“
Nach Süden und Westen geneigte, exponierte Kuppe mit ständigem Windeinfall, durch den die Trauben schnell trocknen und lange gesund bleiben – Idealbedingungen für ausgereifte trockene Rieslinge. Im mit grauem Quarzit durchzogenen tonigen Lössboden weisen alte Gewannnamen wie „Landpflechter Brunnen“ auf die gute Wasserversorgung hin. Im Herzstück der Lage entsteht unser Riesling-Unikat „Landgeflecht“."
(Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn)